By Kristen Philipkoski / Source: Eat, Sleep, Denim

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Diehard vintage Levi’s lovers know that the most popular styles are men’s 501s, 505s and 517. The older the better, because way back when, men wore their jeans higher on the waist, and those cuts tend to be the most flattering on women. Here’s a breakdown of which models area likely to fit best according to your body type.

Hourglass

Look for a pair made before the ’90s, because they are usually more nipped at the waist. If you can find jeans made in the ’60s, they were slimmer in the leg and will flatter your bombshell figure.

Rectangular

Designs in the mid- to late-90s became more relaxed and boxier, with a wider leg, thanks to the rock and roll grunge scene. They also had a wider leg and will work best for your shape.

Apple

Go for the 505s, because they have a zip-fly, which will lie flat, as opposed to the button-fly of 505s, which can puff out a bit.

Universally Flattering

You can’t go wrong with 517s. The high-waist, boot-cut style looks good on just about anyone. And if you crop them at the ankle, you can create that kick-flare silhouette that all the cool kids are wearing these days.

But how to tell when the jeans were made before investing the time to try them on? Click here for a few guidelines.

If all this is way too labor intensive, or if you don’t have luck finding your dream pair despite scouring vintage stores, Levi’s currently makes designs that are reminiscent of the best vintage versions, and the sizing is way more predictable.

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